Cultural expression is an interesting concept… there are many ways one can invoke feeling in themselves and others through the creative methods used to showcase who they are and where they are from. For many of us forming the African diaspora, it has been the varying mediums of artistic expression that have served as the vital gateway that keeps us connected to Home. For instance, the explosive rise of Afrobeats and Amapiano across soundwaves globally, and with it, ushering in a renaissance of afro-centrism.

In parallel to this, fashion I believe has long been a silent force of power which proudly amplifies our distinct African identities - from the Ugandan Kanzu, to the Nigerian Kaftan. In each design and stitching, is a story rooted in deep history… Among many other things, specialised sewing techniques and heirlooms are passed down from generation to generation, enabling fashion to transcend time and become etched in a culture’s tradition.

To my surprise, I saw Afro Nation Co-Founder and cultural architect SMADE walking on the runway as part of Africa Fashion Week London’s (AFWL) final showcase. As he closed things out for David Wej (against the backdrop of Jesse King Buga’s music), something clicked in my mind: as I saw the finely woven, rich and intricate Nigerian designs rested on the bodies of the sharply choreographed models who emphatically strode down the runway with pride as they bore African culture for everyone to see, it dawned on me that AFWL is much more than just a fashion showcase…

Now in its 15th year, AFWL has cemented itself as a point of reference that is protecting, preserving and elevating the legacy of African cultures through having successfully built their own global stage to showcase African excellence, when nobody would give them one. AFWL’s annual catwalk and exhibition event is one of the world’s largest and longest-running showcases of African and African-inspired fashion & design. AFWL has hosted 3000 emerging and established designers and exhibitors to 75,000 visitors, including buyers, retailers, industry professionals and global media. Overall, 26 African countries and 67 countries have been represented, including diaspora designers from Brazil, Europe, Asia, the Caribbean and the Americas.

Additionally, AFWL has produced 12 third-party events such as the Southbank Centre’s Africa Utopia and Meltdown Festival, The Mayor of London’s Africa on the Square, and The Africa Centre’s Summer Festival. Such is the importance of AFWL, that the initiative positively impacts, directly and indirectly, over 5000 individuals annually including SMEs, designers, tailors, textile designers, students, visitors, models, stylists, photographers, journalists, caterers, artists, tech and production staff and lovers of fashion.

AFWL 2025 was spread out across the 9th and 10th August 2025. These were jam packed days with a diverse itinerary. They saw African fashion, fans, enthusiasts, and leaders descend upon Holborn to AFWL’s new venue of choice, Space House, to partake in their yearly celebration of African culture, creativity and collaboration through fashion. This year, the bar was raised significantly, with stellar partnerships from the likes of The British Council, Meta.AI x IN Official, NeuroScent, Winchester School of Art, Fashion Institute and Her Excellency, the 1st Lady of Kwara State. We were also gifted with riveting performances: the classic “The Circle of Life” by the Broadway cast of Disney’s THE LION KING, and a triumphant drum and dance display by Dubafrique. Many attendees I spoke commended the high energy and fun atmosphere created – one in which they felt proud to represent their culture while appreciating others.

AFWL is very clear in its intentions to bridge the gap between Africa and the rest of the world, and creating a holistic experience that goes far beyond just clothes and fashion. There was a clear focus not only to showcase designers (be they emerging and established) from across the continent, but also to empower them, thereby helping to create a true transgenerational platform that will exist for a long time to come.

One of my favourite aspects of the weekend, were the excellently curated panel talks (expertly and passionately moderated by AFWL Creative Director Bola Obileye) which were all of an extremely high calibre. They were all informative, urgent and provided deeply honest insights into their journeys and how they overcame adversity in navigating the industry. Talk one explored sustainability in African fashion and storytelling, with speakers Bukky Asehinde, Edna Darkwaa, and Sharon Wendo. Talk two examined the impact of AI in Fashion Design, with speakers Thierry Bayle, Daniel Getachew, Viola Edward and Dr. Sandra Walberta Powers. Talk three analysed fashion careers through beauty, hair, couture and photography through storytelling, with speakers Titilolami Bello, Dr. Avis-Ellis Charles, Amanda Akokhia and Eryca Freemantle.

Having also attended the Press Conference on 7th August, Queen Ronke Ademiluyi Ogunwusi’s keynote speech was rather memorable to me. She poignantly outlined the initial challenges facing AFWL at its inception: there were those that doubted its feasibility, questioned the place of African fashion on the global market, and deemed such a venture to be impossible to execute. Now however, 15 years later, it is a vibrant reality, through perseverance, passion and a committed team - including Prince Kamari Ademiluyi, Anna Marie Benedict and Samson Soboye, who all also gave moving keynote speeches. All, including Bola, “CJ”, Dame Mary Martin and Princess Bukola Okiji, must be applauded for f lawlessly executing AFWL in its 15th year.

However, as with anything, there is always room for improvement. Next year, I would like to see a tighter execution of the running order to ensure that the event schedule runs more precisely and according to time. I feel there should also be venue Wi-Fi available to attendees. Lastly, more seating in the exhibition area, or perhaps opening another part of the venue where attendees can take space to relax from the hustle and bustle of it all. This is Norman Busigu’s review of AWFL 2025, having been invited as official press via his media platform Postcards From The Diaspora (PFTD). Busigu was accompanied by founding PFTD member, Yinka Oloòtọ́. An account of AFWL by Norman Busigu was also featured by leading Kenyan publication, Tuko