A Transformative Journey: The Global Fashion Collective (LFW/SS27)
This article was drafted by Susannah Oluwaseun. Special thanks are given to Natalia Cassel and Jamal Abdourahman.
On 20 September 2026, I stepped into Protein Studios for the Global Fashion Collective (GFC) London Spring/Summer 2027 showcase at London Fashion Week x Fashion Scout. Four visionary designers from around the world transformed the space, inviting us to journey through their distinct worlds of art, style, and culture.
Pictured: Norman Busigu and Susannah Oluwaseun
ME Maria Elena Di Terlizzi
The brand “ME” by Maria Elena Di Terlizzi, hailing from Italy, opened the showcase with a rush of vibrant colours, like magenta and green, canvassed on a range of silhouettes and textures, often embodied in a signature draped dress. The showcase was not only visually striking, but also deeply personal to Di Terlizza. The showcase was a tribute to her late friend, an artist and writer, who used the same vibrant colours within their art. The collection married haute couture and urban art to create a unique and powerful experience.
ME on the runway
Joachim
Joachim presented the second showcase, which was a trance-inducing experience. The music transported the audience from Shoreditch, London, to Lesotho—the tribal chanting and drums setting the atmosphere for the presentation. Katiso Joachim Tsoho’s work is characterised by bold prints presented in a variety of mediums, including knitwear, tailoring, outerwear, and accessories. The prints are cultural symbols that form part of Tsoho’s story, including litima. Litema are designs that women of the Basotho culture traditionally use to decorate the outside of their homes. Although litema is a distinct style, this art form has no limits. Similarly, Joachim’s collection had a distinct look and showed no limits in how it appeared across a range of silhouettes.
Joachim on the runway
After the show, we spoke briefly with Tsoho to learn more about the inspiration behind his collection. Tsoho is from Lesotho and remains based there. However, he has now presented his work globally and attended Africa Fashion Week London earlier this year.
What inspired you to get into fashion?
Tsoho didn't take long to answer. With a soft confidence, he explained that he’s loved fashion since he was a baby; at this stage in his life, his passion for fashion is woven into his very identity. His mother also played a key role in further igniting his affinity for fashion by making African prints. Through this exposure, Tsoho combined his passion with skills by learning to sew clothing.
What differences have you noticed between the London fashion market and the fashion market back home?
Tsoho’s answer was simple, yet powerful. He noticed a different story in London than back home. Fashion here tells a different story than it does in Lesotho, each city expressing itself in its own language of style. Within this, we then asked Tsoho, "What story do you want to tell? Joachim’s story is rooted in Tsoho’s identity. Tsoho answered that the story he wants to tell is about his home. He wants to amplify existing culture and practices and share Lesotho's way of life with the world through his fashion.
Pictured: Tsoho, Norman Busigu and Susannah Oluwaseun
What is your vision for the next few years?
Tsoho, a man who carries himself with drive and focus, once again gave a grounded response: over the next few years, he would like to focus on having fun, staying open-minded, and deepening his learning. He wants to build his brand further and make it sustainable.
Lastly, we asked Thoso what his message to the diaspora was…
He succinctly said, “Never forget home,” and said that home will forever remain in the hearts of those from the diaspora. This powerful interview added even more radiance to the Joachim SS27 collection.
Spiky Cherry
The Spiky Cherry collection “Manufactured Grace” captured my attention and refused to let go. Anna Tchashin, a Berlin-based designer and founder of Spiky Cherry, showcased a wonderful crochet collection. The hand-combined yarns created raw edges and fragmented surfaces. The collection appeared both grotesque and elegant. Some outfits were paired with striking accessories, like crocheted whips with a spiky chain, a crochet crown, and flowers. The dramatic walks further enhanced the showcase, and they were captivatingly beautiful. The collection is rooted in Tchashin’s past as a competitive ice dancer and explored the tension between beauty, discipline and pain. This visually striking collection produced a lasting impression.
Spiky Cherry on the runway
Oscuro
The GFC showcase closed with a presentation from French label Oscuro, which made its London debut. Self-taught designer Xavier Lopez founded the label. The collection featured premium streetwear defined by Oscuro's signature black aesthetic. The brand intentionally leaves its design interpretation open, creating raw designs that emphasise urban utility. This debut on the London stage marks the next chapter in Oscuro's growth.
Oscuro on the runway
Words of Wisdom from Jamal Abdourahman
After the showcase, PFTD had the pleasure of catching up with its founder, Jamal Abdourahman. Jamal radiates a calm confidence honed by decades in the industry. When asked how he manages the whirlwind of Fashion Week preparations, he credited strong systems and a reliable team. For Jamal, the dazzling chaos of Fashion Week is simply another day at the office—a world he’s mastered and made his own.
When asked about his favourite fashion week city, Jamal paused thoughtfully. While he claimed no single favourite, he singled out Japan for its wholehearted dedication. He left us with a resonant message: pour your all into what you do, and success will follow.
Pictured: Jamal Abdourahman, Norman Busigu and Susannah Oluwaseun
Images supplied by Natalia Cassel/Susannah Oluwaseun/Norman Busigu
